9 AWESOME FRENCH CHEESES EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW
CHEF AT HOME CATERING
Nothing says joie de vivre français like an oozing triple crème. The French enjoy a lot of cheese. And more importantly, they are deeply connected to and proud of their cheese. As well they should be! They have a rich and storied cheese history, a deep-rooted culture of cheese, and more than a thousand cheeses in their lexicon.
France takes its cheese so seriously, they have a whole system of Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). This means "controlled designation of origin," and serves to protect the authenticity of cheese. For example, for a cheese to be awarded the AOC-protected name "Cantal," it must come from the Cantal mountains in Auvergne from the winter milk of Salers cows, made according to specific methodology, and aged a minimum of one month.
Only a small percentage of those cheeses get imported to the U.S., and most of them are made specifically for the American market. You guessed right: those cheeses tend to be less complex, factory-made, and tragically disappointing.
But don't despair—the French cheese lover in The States still has many glorious options. These are my favorite nine, although I have real love for other greats that didn't make this list: Epoisses! Alsatian munster! Abondance! Morbier! Bleu d'Auvergne! But hey, gotta leave something for next time.
LANGRES
REGION OF ORIGIN: CHAMPAGNE
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: ABOUT 6 WEEKS
NOTES: LANGRES IS MY DESERT ISLAND CHEESE. IT IS DENSE, OOZY, AND CREAMY, PERFECT FOR POKING AT AND SCOOPING UP WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE. STINKY, BUT NOT HIT-YOU-OVER-THE-HEAD STINKY, LANGRES IS A CHEESE THAT JUSTIFIES FRANCE'S CHEESE-GENIUS CRED. WASHED WITH BRINE, FUNKY, MILKY, AND SHOW-STOPPING.
SERVE: WITH GOOD BREAD AND GO AT IT! A RHONE RED WINE AND PRUNES MAKE PERFECT PAIRINGS.
FROMAGE DE MEAUX
REGION OF ORIGIN: ILE-DE-FRANCE (BRIE)
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: ABOUT 6 WEEKS
NOTES: REAL BRIE, FROM BRIE. THIS IS THE CLOSEST WE CAN GET IN THE U.S. TO THE REAL DEAL; OUR LAWS DICTATE THAT THE CHEESE MUST BE PASTEURIZED, WHICH MEANS A BIT OF THE LUSCIOUS COMPLEXITY IS LOST. BUT STILL, FROMAGE DE MEAUX REMAINS MAGNIFICENT. BEEFY, BUTTERY, WITH NOTES OF MUSHROOMS, GARLIC, AND ALMONDS AND A PRETTY GOLDEN PASTE.
SERVE: WITH CHAMPAGNE, OR A BIG RED BOUDREAUX OR BURGUNDY.
COMTE
REGION OF ORIGIN: FRANCHE-COMTÉ
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: 12 - 18 MONTHS
NOTES: ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREATEST CHEESES. COMTE HAS BEEN MADE FROM THE UNPASTEURIZED MILK OF MONTBÉLIARDE COWS (SEE PHOTO!), HIGH IN THE JURA MOUNTAINS, FOR CENTURIES. THEY GRAZE ON ABUNDANT PASTURES, AND IN THE SUMMER THE CHEESE TAKES ON FLORAL NOTES. BIG, SMOOTH, AND RIGHTEOUS. HINTS OF HAZELNUTS, TOFFEE, AND RIPE, SUCCULENT FRUIT. HARD, YET PLIABLE.
SERVE: PERFECT FOR MELTING! A FONDUE CLASSIC, AND A WELCOME ADDITION TO GRILLED CHEESE. ALSO GREAT ON A CHEESE PLATE, WITH A FRUITY RED WINE LIKE BEAUJOLAIS.
LE CHÂTELAIN CAMEMBERT
REGION OF ORIGIN: NORMANDY
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: ABOUT 30 DAYS
NOTES: LE CHÂTELAIN IS MADE LIKE AOC CAMEMBERT, EXCEPT THAT THE MILK IS PASTEURIZED, AND HENCE LE CHÂTELAIN CAN BE LEGALLY IMPORTED. GENTLY PASTEURIZED SO LESS TRUFFLY, FRIED EGG-Y, AMAZINGLY COMPLEX FLAVOR IS OBLITERATED. WILDLY MUSHROOMY, EARTHY, AND CREAMY. THIS IS NO GROCERY STORE CAMEMBERT; THIS IS THE REAL DEAL.
SERVE: WITH CHENIN BLANC OR A NORMANDY CIDER. MAKES A GREAT CANAPÉ WITH A DOLLOP OF DATE JAM OR ONION CONFIT.
OUSSAU-IRATY
REGION OF ORIGIN: THE NORTHERN BASQUE PYRENEES
TYPE OF MILK: SHEEP
AGED: ABOUT 90 DAYS
NOTES: THIS PRESSED, UNCOOKED, RAW SHEEP CHEESE HAS LAYERS UPON LAYERS OF LUSH FLAVOR. IT'S ONE OF TWO SHEEP'S MILK CHEESES WITH AOC DESIGNATION (THE OTHER IS ROQUEFORT), AND YOU CAN REALLY TASTE THE SHEEPY FUNK. THE FLAVOR IS MILD YET HAUNTINGLY COMPLEX. FIRM, SMOOTH, SWEET, AND A LITTLE NUTTY.
SERVE: MELTS BEAUTIFULLY; GRATE OVER SOUP OR PASTA. OR ENJOY ALONGSIDE A GLASS OR TWO OF SAUVIGNON BLANC OR MADIRAN.
ROQUEFORT
REGION OF ORIGIN: THE AREA SURROUNDING THE TINY TOWN OF ROQUEFORT-SUR-SOULZON IN SOUTHERN FRANCE
TYPE OF MILK: SHEEP
AGED: 2 TO 4 MONTHS
NOTES: ACCORDING TO THE LEGEND OF ROQUEFORT, THE CHEESE WAS BORN WHEN A YOUNG BOY SAW A BEAUTIFUL GIRL IN THE DISTANCE. HE ABANDONED HIS LUNCH OF BREAD AND CHEESE IN A CAVE, RUNNING TO SOAK IN HER LUSTER. WHEN HE RETURNED A FEW MONTHS LATER PENICILLIUM ROQUEFORTI (THE FAMOUS ROQUEFORT MOLD) HAD TRANSFORMED HIS PLAIN CHEESE INTO ROQUEFORT. THE FIRST CHEESE TO RECEIVE AOC STATUS, ROQUEFORT EARNS ITS NICKNAME "THE KING OF BLUES." IT'S BEEN AROUND FOR AT LEAST A THOUSAND YEARS. IT IS RINDLESS AND FUDGY, WITH GREEN AND BLUE VEINING AND A PUNCHY, SPICY-SWEET, AND INCREDIBLE FLAVOR.
SERVE: IN A SALAD WITH WALNUTS AND BEETS, OR MELTED ON A JUICY STEAK, OR PAIRED WITH SAUTERNES AFTER DINNER.
CHÈVRE
REGION OF ORIGIN: THE LOIRE VALLEY AND POITOU
TYPE OF MILK: GOAT
NOTES: CHÈVRE IS SIMPLY FRENCH FOR GOAT, AND A GENERIC TERM FOR MANY GOAT'S MILK CHEESES. SOME OF THE CLASSICS: BUCHERON, CROTTIN DE CHAVIGNOL, POULIGNY SAINT-PIERRE, CHABICHOU DU POITOU, VALENÇAY. SOMETIMES COATED WITH A SPRINKLE OF ASH, ORIGINALLY CHARCOAL, TO KEEP THE CHEESE FROM DRYING OUT. CHÈVRE STARTS OUT MILD AND CREAMY, AND BECOMES DRIER, FIRMER, FLAKIER, AND MORE ACIDIC WITH AGE.
SERVE: IN SALADS, OMELETS, AND ON PIZZA.
PONT L'EVÊQUE
REGION OF ORIGIN: NORMANDY (THE LITTLE TOWN OF PONT L'EVÊQUE)
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: ABOUT 6 WEEKS
NOTES: NORMAN MONKS IN THE MIDDLE AGES ENDED THEIR MEALS WITH THIS MILKY, GRASSY WASHED RIND CHEESE, AND IT'S STILL A PITCH-PERFECT WAY TO CULMINATE A GREAT DINNER. CUT OPEN THE CUTE, COMPACT ORANGE SQUARE AND WATCH THE IVORY PASTE OOZE FABULOUSLY. EAT THE WHOLE THING, RIND AND ALL. ITS BARK IS BIGGER THAN ITS BITE; IT'S GOT A STRONG SMELL, BUT A DELICATE, MILD FLAVOR. SWEET-TART, CREAMY, AND ADDICTIVE.
SERVE: WITH CHAMPAGNE, PINOT NOIR, OR GAMAY. A PONT L'EVÊQUE AND PEAR SANDWICH MAKES A PRETTY AWESOME LUNCH.
TOMME DE SAVOIE
REGION OF ORIGIN: FROM THE VALLEY OF SAVOIE, IN THE FRENCH ALPS
TYPE OF MILK: COW
AGED: ABOUT 2 MONTHS
NOTES: "TOMME" IS A GENERIC FRENCH TERM FOR A WHEEL OF CHEESE, USUALLY A SMALLISH WHEEL. TOMME DE SAVOIE IS THUS "CHEESE FROM SAVOIE," AND IT IS AN AWESOME CHEESE INDEED. IT'S MADE FROM SKIMMED MILK—AFTER THE CREAM HAS BEEN USED FOR BUTTER, OR RICHER CHEESES—AND THE RESULT IS A MUSKY AND SATISFYING WONDER. THE CHEESE IS SEMI-SOFT, WITH A DUSTY, TOUGH RIND. TOMME DE SAVOIE LOOKS AND TASTES TOTALLY RUSTIC, EARTHY, AND REMINISCENT OF THE CAVES IN WHICH IT IS AGED.
SERVE: WITH AN ALSATIAN RIESLING, OR A BELGIAN DOUBLE. SERVE WITH WALNUTS, OR MELT ON A BAKED POTATO, OR TOSS IN A SALAD WITH ARUGULA.
BON APPETIT !